Mark Mathews at The Right
Mark Mathews just returned from an amazing 4-day swell at the Right in Australia. Read Mark’s story below.
Here’s Mark’s story:
The main stream media was hyping the swell up so much in the lead up, calling it swell of the decade, i half
expected to see boatie from Point Break out there!
I have never seen a swell in the 20ft + range last for 3 days straight with
perfect weather conditions anywhere in australia.
Its one thing having one session in huge waves but have multiple back to back sessions in monster waves
really tests you physically and mentally. My nerves feel completely fried after the last 4 days.
At the peak of the swell it was almost too big for “The Right” it started to become
like a game of Russian roulette where you just had to hope that the wave you where on wasn’t going to
close out and blow you to pieces!
There was one really scary moment when my tow partner, Phil Read (Ex AFL) player went down on a big one and didn’t surface for 2 waves.
he eventually came up concussed after being hit in the head by his board while he was being thrashed around under water.
All Photos: Russell Ord.
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