Mark Mathews at The Right
Mark Mathews just returned from an amazing 4-day swell at the Right in Australia. Read Mark’s story below.
Here’s Mark’s story:
The main stream media was hyping the swell up so much in the lead up, calling it swell of the decade, i half
expected to see boatie from Point Break out there!
I have never seen a swell in the 20ft + range last for 3 days straight with
perfect weather conditions anywhere in australia.
Its one thing having one session in huge waves but have multiple back to back sessions in monster waves
really tests you physically and mentally. My nerves feel completely fried after the last 4 days.
At the peak of the swell it was almost too big for “The Right” it started to become
like a game of Russian roulette where you just had to hope that the wave you where on wasn’t going to
close out and blow you to pieces!
There was one really scary moment when my tow partner, Phil Read (Ex AFL) player went down on a big one and didn’t surface for 2 waves.
he eventually came up concussed after being hit in the head by his board while he was being thrashed around under water.
All Photos: Russell Ord.
In Same Category
Related by Tags
- Surf Muse: Mahina Garcia
- The Life of Glide
- Surf Muse: Karson Lewis
- On The Tea
- Jordy Smith - Beyond the Tour
- Surf Muse: Amber Mozo
- Jordy Smith Is Currently The Best Surfer In The World According to the WSL ranking, at least.
- O’Neill x Stab: A Place In The Sun
- Jordy Smith | New World #1
- Bred to Shred 2017
- The Very Best Of Young Gun, Dwight Pastrana
- Surf Muse: Honolua Blomfield
- By A Thread | Russel Bierke
- THE ORIGINAL AMERICAN SURF BRAND
- Jack O’Neill World Memorial Paddle Out
- Jack O’Neill Global Paddle Outs
- I Knew Jack
- Jack O’Neill Memorial Paddle Out
- Dust and the Wind with Torrey Meister
- Baja Bug With Timmy Reyes
- The Skeleton Key
- Surf Muse: Amy Murphree
- Celebration of the Life of Jack O’Neill
- Jack O’Neill 1923-2017
- The Wave Of The Winter Movie Is Officially Live
- La Vida Lopez Featuring Cory Lopez, Brett Barley & Robbie McCormick
- Team O’Neill Update: Jordy’s Road to Bells
- Golden Light Presented By Herewith
- Jordy Smith Claims Legendary Bell’s Beach Victory for the First Time in his Career
- Stab Full Frame – March
- Seth Moniz Wins O’Neill Breakthrough Performer
- Koa Rothman Wins O’Neill Wave of the Winter
- WOTW Top 10 Entries
- Best Combo I’ve Ever Pulled | Brett Barley
- Stab – Full Frame
- O’Neill Cocoa Beach Challenge
- Surf Muse: Kiana Fores
- Corona Pro Circuit – Stop #2
- Sebastián Correa Wins O’Neill Wave of the Winter Reader’s Choice for January